The Colourful History of Cosmetics
Painting, Dyeing, Bleaching: Make-up Through the Ages
Feb 16, 2009
Mesdemet, which is made of copper and lead ore, was used by Egyptians to for multiple purposes – to enhance their appearance, ward off evil spirits, and also repel insects. Rich green eye shadow made of copper was applied on their eyelids, deep black kohl made of burnt almonds, oxidized copper ash, and ochre was used on their eyelashes. Red clay mixed with water was applied to their cheeks and lips.
Greeks placed much emphasis on cosmetics, status quo being that a woman without makeup may as well be nude. White lead and chalk were worn on the face in Graeco-Roman society, for the coveted pale complexion. For their hair and faces Persian women used henna, a temporary organic dye extracted from drying and grinding leaves and stems of a tree, with the belief that this allowed them to command the majesty of the earth.
During the 18th century, with the rise of risqué nightclubs such as the famed Moulin Rouge, the French relied on excessive rouge and lipstick for an impression of being spirited and fun-loving. Others, however, were disgusted by their heavily-painted faces, and claimed it was a sign of deceit, concealing the flaws beneath.
The Price of Beauty – Arsenic, Belladonna and Lead
In 17th century Italy, Giulia Tofana made a fortune selling Aqua Tofana, a face powder created from arsenic. Famous for its use in movies where characters poisoned by arsenic meet an untraceable end, this deadly substance was said to have been the cause of over 600 “accidental” deaths – husbands of Tofana’s customers. Legend has it even Mozart had fallen prey to Aqua Tofana – however, it has been proven unsubstantiated.
During the Regency era, a pale face indicated that the bearer was rich enough not to have to spend her days toiling out in the hot sun, unlike the working class. To achieve this look, they used a powder made out of white lead and mercury – dangerous beauty aids which led to lead poisoning. Courtesan Kitty Fisher met her end after one too many applications, yet many women continued to use them until powder made of the more harmless zinc oxide was discovered.
Belladonna, also known as "deadly nightshade", was used to dilate the pupils, making them appear more luminous. Ironically, its name is Italian in origin, meaning "beautiful woman". The side effects, however, were disastrous, including the inability to focus on near objects, increased cardiac rate, and even blindness.
Au Naturale Beauty
Before the advent of commercialised cosmetics, home-prepared face masks were very much in vogue. Many women of the Victorian era used organic substances such as oatmeal, honey and egg yolk, to give themselves a glazed appearance. Beetroot and clear pomade were used to add colour and sheen to their lips. Red beet juice was a substitute for rouge, or just a simple pinching of the cheeks. A drop of lemon juice in each eye also enhanced the luminosity of the eyes.
The pursuit of beauty has been ongoing since the earliest records of human history, and today the cosmetics industry is a multi-billion dollar business, with players like Revlon, Maybelline, L’Oréal and oters playing a huge role in women’s daily beauty routines. However, as history has shown, fashion trends will come and go, and the concept of beauty is always in the eye of the beholder – health should be prioritised above the attainment of society’s fleeting ideals.
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